Crop or Not | a 7 Image Story

Crop or Not | Landscape 9x16Crop or Not | a 7 Image Story  To crop or not to crop: that is the question:  Whether  ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune…  Most pros don’t crop.  Their motto: move your feet to get the image right in the camera.  That’s easy to say, if you have all the equipment and time required to capture the image you want.  Most amateurs know that sometimes you cannot move to get the shot you want.  Things get in your way like mountains, rivers, vacation with other people, enough time, the right lens, etc.  Occasionally as an amateur, you might not have the vision or foresight to get a different lens or move to a better place.  And, you can’t go back to try again; vacation’s over.

Besides the obvious, why else might you want to crop?  Sometimes you don’t notice distracting elements at the edges of the frame or you did notice but could not capture the images without them.  Sometimes, you might like a certain scale like 4×5 for portraits of people and animals or like 9×16 HD scale for landscapes and airplanes. So, do you pitch the image or crop it?  

If you make the click, you have the privilege of finishing the image any way you like, right?  Well, right, sort of.  For me, it depends mostly upon the destination of the image.  First, I always try to get the image I want in the camera.  Then, if the image will be used in the editorial market, it gets finished without cropping.  (Photo editors do not like cropped images.)  Sometimes, I’ll make a copy and crop the copy to one of my favorite scales to make a print. (I never crop the master.)  I really like 4×5 scale for portraits, both people and animals; sometimes even trees.  For many grand landscapes, I like the 9×16, sometimes called HD, scale.  And, for aircraft, particularly head on ground shots, the 9×16 scale looks great.  An occasional image looks good; square.

There are several downside impacts of cropping including:

  • Photo editors do not like cropped images and will discard your entire submission most of the time.
  • Aggressive cropping can reduce image quality.
  • Over time, cropping can make the photographer a bit lazy.
  • Sometimes, it reduces the maximum size of acceptable print quality.

If you are going to crop, consider a few guidelines for better composition while cropping:

  • Crop before making any other adjustment in post processing.  The remaining adjustments will be easier and to scale.
  • Don’t forget the “rule of thirds” for composition when cropping.
  • Check the edges of the image to see if any distracting objects lurk.
  • Check to see if the subject is still off-center.

Or perhaps you are a purest and will not accept a cropped image. You made the click, finish your image as you will.

Each of the 7 images represent a crop I’ve use from time to time.  Each image will be posted individually this week with a bit more narrative under category Crop or Not.

Click any image below for a slide show!

Nikon 1 V3 for Aviation | a 7 Image Story

Nikon 1 V3 for Aviation | F-22 RaptorNikon 1 V3 for Aviation | a 7 Image Story  My journey with the Nikon 1 series cameras and lenses started with the V1, skipped the V2, and embraced the V3.  The V3 fixed several annoying V1 traits.  Also, handling, auto-focus, and metering improved dramatically.  About the same time, a firmware upgrade allowed the auto-focus to more easily keep aircraft in focus while panning with the lens attached to the FT-1 adapter.  Thus, the Nikon 1 V3 became a reasonably nice camera for capturing aviation images as well as most other images.  I’ve captured a variety of aircraft images including props, jets, sailplanes, float planes, helicopters, and even a blimp.  Those images included statics both on land and water as well as ground to air while panning handheld.  Unfortunately, there haven’t been any air to air images yet.  Thus far, my data base contains over 75K+ V1 and V3 images with over 1330 posted on this blog.

What the V3 does well, it does very well.  Now, the V3 is my preferred carry camera for capturing daily walkabout images.  It shoots much like a DSLR in continuous mode.  Although a bit noisy at higher ISOs, the image quality is quite good, particularly for posting.   Although bracketing would really be helpful, today’s post processing software reduces the need.  The 2.7 crop factor helps improve images where getting closer is not an option, like at air shows.  Would I only take it to an air show or fly-in and leave my DSLRs in the hangar?  Well yes, occasionally I do, if a light travel pack is required.  Still, I’d rather take both my DSLRs and the V3.

In a nutshell, what specifically do I like about the Nikon 1 V3 for aviation?

  • The Nikon 1 V3 is relatively small and light to carry.  Carrying heavy gear all day around air shows gets old, fast.
  • With it’s 2.7 crop factor, it adds inexpensive reach to my telephoto lens allowing me more flexibility in positioning.
  • It’s easy to carry with a telephoto lens attached, like the AFS 70-300mm & FT-1, using the sun sniper shoulder strap.
  • Image quality seems quite good unless a really large print is required.
  • With a little practice, it can be panned handheld with slower shutter speeds to capture blurred propellers.
  • The tilting LCD reduces the time spent hugging the ground to get that low angle shot.
  • While I seldom use video, a short video makes a nice addition to event posts.
  • Of course, most Nikon AFS lenses work nicely, using the FT-1 adapter.

The V3 presents a few more challenges over my DSLRs!

  • The Nikon 1 V3 requires a bit more camera discipline than a my DSLRs.  The controls sometimes move during normal handling so the photographer must often check to ensure the settings are correct.Nikon 1 V3 for Aviation | WWII Bomber Crew Reenactors
  • Panning in low light can be demanding and a high ISO generates a good bit of noise.
  • The small camera frame, attached to a long, heavy telephoto lens, does not seem balanced; making handling a bit tricky.  The Nikon AFS 70-300mm works nicely, whereas, the AFS 70-200mm; not so much.  Also, care must be taken not to break the camera mount with a heavy telephoto lens.  Always carry it by the lens or the FT-1, not the camera.
  • Higher ISO images sometimes require a pass through noise reduction in post processing.
  • The V3 does not have exposure bracketing, which would come in handy.
  • Changing the battery and/or the MicroSD card in the field takes some time and care.
  • Build quality is more consumer than professional.  If dropped, it can break.

What’s next?  Nikon appears to have discontinued the Nikon 1 V series; too bad.  A V4 camera could have addressed several V3 issues to become a really great camera.  It’s not yet clear what my next carry camera will be; maybe another V3.

Each image will be posted individually this week with a bit more narrative under category Nikon 1 V3 for Aviation.

Click any image below for a slide show!

My Nikon 1 V3 aviation kit fits into a very small Lowepro camera backpack.  The camera equipment includes a Nikon 1 V3 Body, Nikon FT-1 Adapter, 1 VR 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 PD-Zoom, 1 VR 30-110mm f3.8-5.6, AFS 50mm f1.4G, and a AFS 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED VR.  The supporting equipment includes a Nikon Speedlight SB-N5 Flash, LitePanels MicroPro Hybrid, Sennheiser MKE 400 Directional Mic, Sun Sniper Shoulder Strap, Extra Nikon EN-EL15 Battery, Nikon MH-25 Charger, Extra SD Cards, Lens Cleaning Supplies, and a Headlamp with red & white light.  A small MeFOTO tripod has its own bag.  Find more Nikon 1 V1 and V3 experiences posted under IMHO.

Nikon 1 V3 Walkabout Kit

My Nikon 1 V3 Walkabout Kit has changed a bit since upgrading to the V3.  What’s in your bag; is it still small?  Well, yes it still is.  The bag has been changed to a very small Lowepro camera backpack.  As you’ll see below, I’m carrying a few more items in the bag.  On my walkabouts, I usually just carry the camera and one lens.  By adding the 30-110mm lens, I don’t carry the big lens as much.  Still, if the lens is the 70-300mm, I usually attach the sun sniper strap to the FT-1 and use it to carry the rig.

Air Show Reenactor

Air Show Reenactor

 
My Nikon 1 V3 walkabout kit contains:
 
1. Nikon 1 V3 Body
2. Nikon FT-1 Adapter
3. 1 VR 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 PD-Zoom
4. 1 VR 30-110mm f3.8-5.6
5. AFS 50mm f1.4G
6. AFS 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED VR
7. Nikon Speedlight SB-N5 Flash
8. LitePanels MicroPro Hybrid
9. Sennheiser MKE 400 Directional Mic
10. Sun Sniper Shoulder Strap
11. Extra Nikon EN-EL15 Battery
12. Nikon MH-25 Charger
13. Extra SD Cards
14. Lens Cleaning Supplies
15. Headlamp with red & white light

 

 

The kit generally stays in my vehicle and rides almost everywhere with me.  If I go on foot or for some other reason can not take the entire kit, I either carry the camera and lens or put it into my briefcase.  Sure, my iPhone is much easier to carry and the image quality continues to get better.  It just doesn’t capture images like the V3 and the 2.7 crop factor really increases the effective reach.  Find more Nikon 1 V1 and V3 experiences posted under IMHO.

Nikon 1 V1 Walkabout Kit

A number of folks have asked me about my Nikon 1 V1 Walkabout Kit.  What’s in your bag; is it small?  Well, yes it is.  In fact, the bag isn’t even a camera bag; it’s a small, free shoulder bag from a Sandhill Crane convention.  On my walkabouts, I usually just carry the camera and one lens.  If lens is the 70-300mm, I usually attach the sun sniper strap to the FT-1 and use it to carry the rig.   The rest of the kit stays in my vehicle and rides almost everywhere with me.  If I go on foot or for some other reason can not take the entire kit, I either carry the camera and lens or put it into my briefcase.  Sure, my iPhone is much easier to carry.  It just doesn’t capture images like the V1.

6/16/2013 Great Blue HeronMy Nikon 1 V1 walkabout kit contains:

1. Nikon 1 V1 Body
2. Nikon FT-1 Adapter
3. 1 VR 10-30mm f3.5-5.6
4. AFS 50mm f1.4G
5. AFS 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED VR
6. Nikon Speedlight SB-N5 Flash
7. Sennheiser MKE 400 Directional Microphone
8. Sun Sniper Shoulder Strap
9. Extra Nikon EN-EL15 Battery & Nikon MH-25 Charger
10. Extra SD Cards
11. Lens Cleaning Supplies
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Note:  In one of my posts, I said I would not buy the special Speedlight for the V1.  Well, I found one on sale, so I broke down and bought it.  It’s handy for just a little light at a family gathering.  Find more Nikon 1 V1 and V3 experiences posted under IMHO.

Nikon 1 V1 for Aviation

Nikon 1 V1 for Aviation  For me, the Nikon 1 V1 has become, after the firmware upgrade to the FT-1 adapter, a reasonably nice camera for capturing aviation images.  Thus far, I’ve captured a variety of props, jets, sailplanes, floatplanes, helicopters, and even a blimp.  And, those images included statics both on land and water as well as ground to air while panning handheld.  Unfortunately, there haven’t been any air to air images yet.

8/07/2013 Blackhawk Helicopter

What has the experience been like?  For the most part, it’s been a pleasant journey learning how to capture aviation images with the Nikon 1 V1.  Before the firmware upgrade for the FT-1, panning and obtaining a clear image was a real challenge.  It kind of reminded me of the film days using a mostly manual camera.  But, now, with the upgrade, capturing nice ground to air images has become much easier; assuming the use of reasonable panning skills.  The V1 shoots much like a DSLR in continuous mode.

 

 

 

In a nutshell, what specifically do I like and dislike about the Nikon 1 V1 for aviation:

Likes:

1. The Nikon 1 V1 is relatively small and  light to carry.  It has become my favorite carry camera.

2. It’s easy for me to carry even with a telephoto lens, like the AFS 70-300mm, attached.

3. Image quality seems quite good unless a 30×45 print is required.

4. With a little practice, it can be handheld and panned with slower shutter speeds to capture prop planes and helicopters with their props blurred.

0506 Floatplane Weekend 2013Dislikes:

1. The Nikon 1 V1 requires more camera discipline than a my DSLRs.  The controls move during normal handling so the photog must often check whether the settings are correct.

2. Panning in low light can be demanding for me since a high ISO generates a good bit of noise.

3. With a telephoto lens attached, handling can become a bit tricky.  The small camera frame attached to the telephoto does not seem balanced to me.

 

Yeah, I still like the Nikon 1 V1. Would I only take it to an air show or fly-in and leave my DSLRs in the hangar?  Well no, but I would take it as my specialty and backup camera every time.  Again; what it does well, it does very well, for me.

Find more Nikon 1 V1 and V3 experiences posted under IMHO.

To Crop or Not to Crop


0010 # 007623 Snow Vortices from a Cessna 185 on skis STD_7623
 To crop or not to crop: that is the question:  Whether  ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.  Or…  Sorry, I got carried away. 

My view: if you make the click, you have the privilege of finishing the image any way you like.  Now, currently, I try to get the image right in the camera and do not crop the master image.

Still, sometimes I crop a copy of the master to one of my favorite print scales.   Prior to 2007, I shot slides and never cropped. After converting to digital, I started cropping indiscriminately, but after a while, found too many shortcomings to continue cropping.

Today, it depends mostly upon the destination of the image.  If the image will be used in the editorial market, I’ll finish it without cropping.  (Photo editors do not like cropped images.)  Then, sometimes, I’ll make a copy and crop the image to one of my favorite scales to make a print.  I really like 4×5 scale for portraits, both people and animals; sometimes even trees.   For many grand landscapes, I like the 9×16, sometimes called HD, scale.  And, for aircraft, particularly head on ground shots, the 9×16 scale looks great.  An occasional image looks good; square.

 

Framing the Issue

This question has been around the photography community for many years.  Back in the film and slide days, people even cropped slides by putting tape over the edges of a transparency.  And, of course, cropping in the darkroom was relatively easy. In the digital world, it’s even easier.  Now, it’s sort of a subset of the “do you PhotoShop” question.  Although if done well, it’s difficult to tell in the images; the metadata will easily show the reduced file size.

If it’s your image, you can finish it any way you want, right?  Well, right.

Still, cropping can have an impact on how you may be able to use that image.  You may have heard from a pro; move your feet to get the image right in the camera.  That’s easy to say.  Most amateurs know that sometimes you cannot move to get the shot you want.  Things get in your way; mountains, rivers, vacation with other people, enough time, the right lens, etc. Sometimes, you just didn’t have the vision or foresight to get a different lens or move to a better place and you can’t go back to try again.  Vacation is over.

Sometimes you just did not notice distracting elements at the edges of the frame or did notice but could not capture the images without them.  Sometimes, you might like a certain scale like 4×5 for portraits of people and animals.  And, sometimes, you may really like 9×16 HD scale for landscapes and airplanes. So, do you pitch the image or crop it?

There are several  downside impacts of cropping.  Photo editors do not like cropped images and most of the time will not accept them, which many times means they will discard your entire submission. Aggressive cropping can reduce image quality.  Over time, cropping can make the photographer lazy. Sometimes, it reduces the maximum size of acceptable print quality.  And, certainly there are many more.

And, perhaps you are a purest and will not accept a cropped image.

You made the click, finish your image as you will.

 

1st Impressions; Nikon 1 V1

1st Impressions; Nikon 1 V1  The Nikon 1 V1 camera has been available for quite some time.  In fact, its successor, the Nikon 1 V2, is already available.  Recently, the V1 has been on deep discount sales which is when I purchased mine.  And, I really like the camera.  It’s not a DSLR and it has some drawbacks, but what it does well, it does really well.  To me, it has two big advantages; it’s smaller, lighter than a DSLR and it has a 2.7 crop factor.

So, the V1 has become my go to camera for my daily walkabouts.  Most of the time, the AF-S 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR lens gets attached through the FT-1 adapter.  Although it’s f4.5-5.6, as long as there’s enough light, depth of field  has not been a 4/02/2013 Suburban Robinproblem.  With an effective focal length of 189-810mm,  the backgrounds are adequately blurred and the bokeh seems nice to me.   The 70-300mm is known for it’s sharpness; image quality has been quite good.  Good handholding technique is a must at the long telephoto focal lengths, but with some practice, I have been able to get sharp images.  On my walkabouts, good local wildlife shots have become a bit easier.  Did I mention how light it is to carry?

Occasionally, the AF-S 50mm f1.4 G gets attached, via Ft-1 adapter, for a portrait or a landscape.  After the crop factor, it becomes a very sharp f1.4 135mm lens.

Then for family snaps and an occasional landscape, the kits lens CX 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 VR has produced  some nice images.

A third, rather unexpected, advantage becomes obvious as soon as you begin to use the camera; fast and accurate auto-focus.  Yes, it’s noticeable.  Oh, when a long telephoto is attached, it can hunt if it starts way out of focus.  It’s particularly handy when using a telephoto lens, since the electronic viewfinder isn’t as clear as a DSLR viewfinder.  The autofocus only works on the CX lens and Nikkor AF-S lens through the FT-1.  I tried manually focusing the AF 80-400 f4.5-5.6D ED VR lens.  It works just fine with a tripod, but handheld, it’s a bit awkward and difficult for me to get a sharp focus.  And, as you might expect, mated to the AF-S 70-200mm f2.8 ED VRII, with an effective focal length of 189-540mm, it works beautifully.

There are many features and functions that I have not used yet.  I’ll post more impressions after I have used them enough to comment.

For me, the only negative to the Nikon 1 V1, so far, is the unique flash shoe and flash system.  It seems like a silly design for a first class company like Nikon just to make a few more bucks on new flash units. So, I did not buy a flash.

Bottom line; the Nikon 1 V1 has become a nice accessory camera for me.  It will not replace any of my DSLRs and will not even replace my P7000 point & shoot, because of the non-standard flash.  After reading the specs for the V2, it does not change anything.  Hopefully, as the Nikon 1 series evolves, it will become a viable backup camera.

But for now, again; what it does well, it does very well, for me.

4/15/2013 Canada Goose

Find more Nikon 1 V1 and V3 experiences posted under IMHO.